IMG_0773.JPG

hi friends!

welcome to our blog. we are sisters and best friends. kelda lives in the bay area and lauren lives in nyc. together, we share all things travel, money and more. our mission is to provide actionable tips that still let you live your life! thanks for visiting!

A Weekend in Carmel-by-the-Sea: A Guide To California's Fairytale Beach Town

A Weekend in Carmel-by-the-Sea: A Guide To California's Fairytale Beach Town

Hello, HENRYs! It’s been a while since we released a travel guide - thank you 2020 - but, while this past year has put a pause on the jam-packed international tours that we've been used to, it’s allowed us to explore + fall in love with spots a little closer to home which we are so thankful for! Going forward, I, for one, am going to make it more of a priority to balance out international trips with relaxing, domestic vacations. With Kelda officially living down in the Bay Area, I had the opportunity to visit Carmel-by-the-Sea twice this year, spending 3 nights there each visit. I am head over heels in love + already plotting my next trip and eventual retirement. (Side note - we have a super digestible + action-oriented Retirement 101 class available HERE).

Without further ado, let’s get started on planning your visit!!

WHEN TO VISIT

So in love with Carmel’s architecture. Feels so Hansel & Gretel to me!

So in love with Carmel’s architecture. Feels so Hansel & Gretel to me!

I was able to visit for 3 nights at the end of June + 3 nights at the end of October, giving me a taste of both the height of summer and fall. Weather wise, there wasn’t a super noticeable difference between the two. Temperatures in Carmel tend to be mild year-round, ranging between 60-70 degrees regardless of when you visit, but fall has the most consistently clear and warm days. Due to its location on the coast, mornings are typically foggy and the ocean can make it a bit chilly, so you’ll want a light jacket or layers.

Aside from weather though, you’ll want to consider how busy it might be during your trip. Carmel is at its busiest over the weekend. Most visitors drive in from neighboring areas or cities either for a day trip or to spend the weekend. As such, Friday-Sunday are super busy in Carmel and can make it more challenging for reservations, parking, exploring shops, etc. Additionally, because most visitors come over the weekend, I noticed many restaurants, wineries, etc. were closed on Mondays and Tuesdays. If you’re able to, I’d suggest shifting your trip to arrive mid-week (Wednesday) and head out Saturday morning, so that you aren’t dealing with too many crowds, but still ensure that everywhere you want to visit is open!

Carmel is perfect, in my opinion, any time you’re able to visit, but, if I had to pick, a midweek stay in the fall would be ideal!

While mornings in Carmel start off foggy, it dissipates over the course of the day + even in the fog, it’s one of the most beautiful places!!

While mornings in Carmel start off foggy, it dissipates over the course of the day + even in the fog, it’s one of the most beautiful places!!

GETTING THERE

For the most convenient option, you can fly directly into Monterey Airport, just about a 10 minute drive from Carmel. The airport is small + flights don’t run super often, so you’ll definitely pay for the convenience of being close to Carmel.

Most visitors will either include Carmel as a stop on their West Coast road trip or will fly into one of the major Bay Area airports (SFO, Oakland, San Jose) and drive from there.

If you plan to visit Big Sur, go wine tasting or explore any of the state parks, you’ll need a car, so I would opt to save money + fly into an airport a bit further away, rent a car and drive down to Carmel. It’s just about 90 minutes from San Jose.

For those planning to explore more of Northern California while visiting Carmel, be sure to check out our guides to Napa HERE and HERE, as well as to San Francisco HERE.

WHERE TO STAY

When planning a visit to Carmel, there are many options for areas to stay.

One of the many breath-taking viewpoints at Andrew Molera State Park, along Big Sur

One of the many breath-taking viewpoints at Andrew Molera State Park, along Big Sur

  • Carmel-by-the-Sea - The coastal, storybook beach town with many shops, restaurants and bars. Extremely walkable. This is what most people think of when they’re planning a trip to the area.

  • Carmel Valley - Further inland, Carmel Valley is home to the area’s many wineries and noticeably warmer temperatures. It’s a beautiful spot to visit and stay, but doesn’t feel beachy + definitely requires a car. It all depends on the vibe of the vacation you’re going for!

  • Big Sur - Talk about a bucket list item. If you can stay in Big Sur, absolutely do it! For the average traveler though, it wouldn’t be our top rec as accommodation options are limited and what is available is super expensive - as in $1200 a night expensive. It’s also a remote area with cell reception unavailable in most spots. Regardless, if you’re visiting Carmel, definitely block out a day to drive Big Sur - more on that further in the post!

  • Monterey - Monterey is the larger, neighboring city to Carmel, just a short 10 minute drive away. Accommodation options are typically less expensive here, but the city lacks the charm of Carmel in my opinion. If you really want to visit Carmel and/or Big Sur, but don’t have the budget for accommodations there, Monterey could be a good option.

On my two visits to Carmel this year, I stayed at La Playa Hotel in the heart of Carmel-by-the-Sea and am so obsessed. I’m not sure I could ever visit and stay elsewhere. The hotel is so charming with an historic, old Hollywood glamour. Most of the rooms have ocean views and the hotel is walking distance from all of the best spots.

A daily complimentary breakfast is one of the many perks at La Playa. Breakfast is served from this patio with a garden view on one side + an ocean view on the other!

A daily complimentary breakfast is one of the many perks at La Playa. Breakfast is served from this patio with a garden view on one side + an ocean view on the other!

While we haven’t stayed at any of the following spots, here are a few other recs that we’ve received for the area: Ventana Big Sur, LAuberge Carmel, Pebble Beach (for the bougie golf enthusiast), Post Ranch Inn Big Sur.

WHERE TO EAT + DRINK

Okay, now for the best + most important part of any vacation - the food. Carmel is a pretty slow-paced, coastal town. Because you won’t be worried about packing your day with a ton of tourist sites and monuments as you might on other trips, you’ll have the time for lots of long, luxurious meals. I’m hungry just thinking about all of the amazing food from my trips. Below are some of the can’t miss spots.

Obsessed with the sidewalk dining at La Bicyclette. Carmel is known for being super dog friendly + sidewalk dining makes it even easier!

Obsessed with the sidewalk dining at La Bicyclette. Carmel is known for being super dog friendly + sidewalk dining makes it even easier!

  • Casanova - The perfect date night restaurant. In addition to our entrees, on both trips, I think we ordered every appetizer on the menu because they all just looked and sounded SO good! The wine menu was literally a 250 page tome - a wine bible if you will - with some of the most famous and renowned names in the world. There is a sommelier on site to help you pair the wines with your dinner. Casanova is high quality and fancy, but without feeling pretentious or uptight.

  • Seventh & Dolores - Another spot that we visited on both trips and already can’t wait to return to. A steakhouse that feels bright, modern and fun. The appetizers, entrees, cocktails, service, everything was fabulous!!

  • La Bicyclette - The cutest French bistro. Famous for their pizzas, but we opted for my favorite meal combo of all time - mussels + frites - along with a charcuterie board and rose. Heaven on earth. To note, they don’t take reservations, so plan to arrive about an hour before you want to eat to put your name down. Luckily, there are tons of boutiques and tasting rooms that you can pass your time in until your table is ready!

  • Carmel Belle - The perfect breakfast spot. For the most part, on vacation, I like my breakfasts to be light, quick and easy. I don’t want to be bloated or tired while exploring or spend too much time waiting to be served/pay, etc. when I could be exploring. Carmel Belle is exactly what I look for in a breakfast spot. High quality ingredients + delicious, but super quick and affordable.

  • Stationaery - Another adorable breakfast spot. This one is a “sit-down” spot, so takes a little bit longer, but more of a cafe vibe than a restaurant, so the food is still pretty light + the service is quick. Situated down one of the many alleyways in town which are just so charming!!

  • Cultura comida y bebida - After seafood, Mexican is a very close second on my list of favorite foods + this spot did not disappoint. Amazing margarita selection that can be ordered by the carafe (because who wants just one!?) and delicious tacos. The service was a bit slow, but it was well worth the wait!

Quick + easy breakfast at Carmel Belle, just a short stroll from our hotel

Quick + easy breakfast at Carmel Belle, just a short stroll from our hotel

WHAT TO DO

Corkscrew Cafe - The cutest lunch spot to break up your day wine tasting in Carmel Valley

Corkscrew Cafe - The cutest lunch spot to break up your day wine tasting in Carmel Valley

  • Hiking/Walking - I’ll be the first to admit that I’m not the most outdoorsy or nature loving girl out there, but I love to stay active + getting in a hike or a long walk while on vacation is a great way to both take in a new place and keep moving! Point Lobos State Park would be my top recommendation + it’s just a short drive from town. The full loop was about 4 miles from my memory, but almost entirely flat with the most breathtaking ocean views. If you don’t have time to do the full loop, be sure to visit China Cove and Gibson Beach.

  • Wine Tasting - One of our very favorite vacation activities! There are tons of tasting rooms in town in the heart of Carmel-by-the-Sea, but, if you can, I’d recommend driving into Carmel Valley to taste at the actual wineries + vineyards. It’s an absolutely stunning drive and well worth the trip. Of course, safety comes first, so be sure to plan your tasting schedule accordingly. I’d recommend the following spots:

    • Georis Winery - The most friendly staff and, while I haven’t been to New Mexico, it gave me the vibe of what I imagine it might be like - adobe buildings, cacti, beautiful garden, etc.

    • Joyce Wine Company - A totally different vibe from Georis, much more modern + industrial.

    • Folktale Winery - My favorite stop of the day. We even joined their quarterly wine club. Definitely a spot you could pass a whole afternoon. After your tasting, grab a glass or a bottle to share, order some apps + relax under the sunshine and palm trees.

    • Corkscrew Cafe - Wine tasting in Carmel Valley definitely takes up a good portion of the day, so you’ll want to plan a stop for food. Folktale has delicious food, but if you need another option, Corkscrew was so good with the cutest garden setting. Would definitely go back!

  • 17 Mile Drive - For any golf lovers out there, Pebble Beach is the creme de la creme of golf courses. Even if you aren’t a golf lover, it’s a stunningly beautiful place to visit + 17 Mile Drive is a great way to take it all in. It’s quite literally what it sounds like - a 17 mile car ride - through the community with scenic viewpoints, luxury mansions + more. If you want more of Pebble Beach, but can’t spring for a round of golf, be sure to grab a cocktail or a meal at one of the many restaurants or pick up some new golf attire at one of the pro shops.

  • Carmel Beach - One of the most beautiful spots to take in a sunrise or a sunset. Walk along the beach + pick out your dream home. While Pebble Beach is home to many of the luxury mansions, Carmel Beach is where you’ll find all of the signature storybook (think Hansel & Gretel) homes that the area is known for. While they may be smaller, they’re certainly luxury as well.

One of the visitor entrances to Folktale WInery. Even the wineries fit in with the storybook vibes!

One of the visitor entrances to Folktale WInery. Even the wineries fit in with the storybook vibes!

BIG SUR

Of course, Big Sur is another “What To Do,” but it deserves more than a bullet. It really deserves a full travel guide + blog post, but I’ll try to give the most important points here.

Can you really say you’ve done Big Sur without a photo at Bixby Creek Bridge!?

Can you really say you’ve done Big Sur without a photo at Bixby Creek Bridge!?

If you’re visiting Carmel, definitely try to add another day to your trip in order to take in both Carmel + nearby Big Sur. It was truly one of the most stunning places I’ve ever been + the most enjoyable drive, even better than the famous Road To Hana in my opinion.

  • Start Early - While the drive is only about 90 miles total, it can be slow-going. Not only because there are many points with just one lane, but also because you’ll want to have time to stop at as many places as your heart desires.

  • Plan + Prepare - As I mentioned earlier, most of the drive will have absolutely zero cell reception. You’ll want to have a good idea of everywhere that you plan to visit + each spot’s relation to one another. Luckily, the drive is slow, so you shouldn’t miss any of the signs for your planned stops!

  • Dress The Part - While Big Sur is expensive, it’s super casual. You’ll want to have comfortable shoes that you can hike and walk in, as well as clothes that you can easily move in and don’t mind getting dirty. There are so many amazing stops along the way + it would be such a bummer to miss any because you weren’t dressed appropriately.

  • Where to Eat + What To Do:

    • Grab a quick breakfast to go at Big Sur Bakery

    • Stop at McWay Falls + Bixby Creek Bridge (the most famous photo opp of the drive)

    • Get in a hike at either Andrew Molera or Pfieffer State Parks

    • Lunch in the river at Big Sur Inn - Seriously so cool. You grab lunch in a cooler to go and sit in Adirondack chairs with your toes in the water.

    • Hearst Castle - This is at the very end of the drive, so you may not make it all the way here, but if you’re planning to do the full 90 miles, it’s absolutely worth a visit!

    • If you’ll be around for dinner, I’d recommend either Nepenthe, Post Ranch Inn or the omakase sushi dinner at Treebones Resort. Reservations must be made well in advance for the sushi dinner though!

Lunch in the river at Big Sur River Inn. Ugh - take me back!!

Lunch in the river at Big Sur River Inn. Ugh - take me back!!

As always, both our Delta + Chase Sapphire cards help to make all of our trips possible. I used Delta miles to cover my flight to Carmel + Chase Sapphire points to cover the hotel stay on both visits. If you’re interested in signing up for a Delta American Express card, click HERE for a sign up bonus. If you still don’t have a Chase Sapphire card and want to get in on the action, click HERE for a special sign up bonus!

We hope you fall in love with Carmel-by-the-Sea just as much as we did! It’s truly the perfect spot for a minimoon, anniversary trip, girls’ getaway or even a family vacation. We’d love to see where you go on your visit, so be sure to tag us + of course, we are always here to answer any questions or help you to plan your getaway!!

The First Timers' Guide to Walla Walla: The Crown Jewel of Washington State's Wine Country

The First Timers' Guide to Walla Walla: The Crown Jewel of Washington State's Wine Country

The Definitive Guide to the Perfect Maui Vacation - Finding The Strongest Mai Tais + More of Maui's Best Kept Secrets

The Definitive Guide to the Perfect Maui Vacation - Finding The Strongest Mai Tais + More of Maui's Best Kept Secrets